Louis Vuitton's Nicolas Ghesquière brings digital punk to Paris catwalk

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To witness the pinnacle of fashion today – in terms of both commercial might and creative endeavour – it doesn’t get much better than the Louis Vuitton show that has taken place in Paris.

According to the fashion house’s creative director, Nicolas Ghesquière, this collection was about “the frontier of the digital world” – a theme that enabled him to dress models in shimmering space-age creations while flagging up the brand’s heritage as a purveyor of very posh luggage. “It’s another way of travelling at the end of the day,” he said, “this digital travelling that we are all experiencing.”

Backstage, for half an hour, Ghesquière greeted a procession of stars who looked smaller in real life than they do on the screen – Alicia Vikander, Catherine Deneuve, Michelle Williams – to the delight of the attendant scrum of photographers. Like many in the crowd, these celebrities were either clad head to toe in Louis Vuitton or pledged their allegiance more subtly with a top or a handbag. But the influence of this collection will be felt far beyond these hardcore, moneyed fans.

Ever since Ghesquière joined Vuitton from Balenciaga, four seasons ago, his work has had a huge impact on the wider fashion world; the polo necks and sepia-toned mustard and beige 1970s vision he presented for his first Louis Vuitton collection is still being replicated by other designers and on the high street.

This season was a clear continuation of that look, but more streetwise than before. The influence of the ever-important east Asian market was clearly felt. Korean actress Doona Bae, star of the Netflix series Sense8, was a big inspiration this season, said Ghesquière, as well as the Japanese anime Evangelion and Wong Kar-Wai’s sci-fi 2046.
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